Restaurants: St. John Hotel

Patricia Niven

Sitting in the shadow of the huge, colourful and flash W Hotel, the new St. John Hotel is, by contrast, small, snug and starkly white. Opened last Saturday, it is the latest venture from chef Fergus Henderson who is endeavouring to translate his ethos of ‘Nose-to-tail eating’ to ‘From table to bed’ or as his business partner Trevor Gulliver puts it, ‘that rare thing – a hotel where people would actually want to eat’. There are fifteen rooms, a three-bedroom rooftop suite and a small bar, but we think the biggest draw is the restaurant. The menu changes for each meal and as with all the St. John restaurants, meat is the focus – the suckling pig in particular was amazingly tender – but you won’t be short changed on the puddings either and the signature hot madeleines are always a treat.

The downside is that it isn’t cheap. The main courses start at around £13.50 and can go up to £25, so with wine, side orders and pudding, it all adds up. But the upside is the delicious food, the great Chinatown location (perfect pre or post theatre), and best of all the opening times – doors don’t shut till 2am. It was busy when we went earlier this week but there were still available slots so we’d advise if you want to go, don’t wait too long as we think once word gets out, this will be one of hottest spots in town.

St. John Hotel restaurant
Breakfast: 7-10.30am; lunch: 12-3pm and dinner: 5.30pm-2am
1 Leicester Street, WC2H 7BL
Starters from around £7.50 and main courses from around £13.50
020 7251 0848
— Francesca
7th April 2011

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