Sometimes it feels like another week, and yet another restaurant opening in London. Yet the recent launch of Spring from chef Skye Gyngell, who formerly won over legions of fans and a Michelin star to boot at The Petersham Nurseries Café, has been much anticipated by many. Gyngell searched high and low for the location for her first solo venture and has ended up in a wing of Somerset House (the first time it’s been open to the public in 150 years). It’s a grand setting but Gyngell has done well to make the nineteenth century drawing room light and airy, with blue-green wallpaper, French linen table clothes and tan leather seats (plus a gorgeous atrium garden). The waitresses wear smocks designed by Egg and the waiters, a semi-sailor outfit from Trager Delaney – both sound odd but they work – which reflect the atmosphere, sophisticated but subtle and elegant. The food similarly is beautifully presented and strictly guided by the changing seasons. We had crab cake and the veggie special, both of which melted in the mouth. We finished off with the chocolate and pear tart which we would return for again and again. It’s a grown up affair with a grown up, expensive menu (one fellow guest asked for a green salad which was blankly refused) and yes, if you book soon, you’ll find yourself sitting with the likes of Richard E Grant as we were. But we predict that, months past the grand opening, Spring will still be going strong.