Until August 2015
We’ve raved about Grain Store and chef Bruno Loubet’s innovative way with vegetables before. Now he has set up Grain Store Unleashed at the Zetter Hotel, as a platform to experiment further. At lunch, there is an a la carte menu available but in the evening– when we visited — you can choose a set menu of 4,6 or 8 dishes. Whilst we certainly couldn’t have managed even a Bendicks mint after our dinner, the portions aren’t huge so 8 courses is less of a challenge than it might sound. This is fiendishly clever cooking which manages to avoid being clever just for the sake of it.
The stand out dish from our meal was wild sea trout served with pickled rhubarb, green apple puree, bergamot emulsion and edible flowers. It’s an exceptionally pretty plate but more importantly, completely delicious. There was also broad bean ravioli, with the ‘ravioli’ made from finely sliced kohlrabi: our vegetarian dining companion said she would never believe it wasn’t pasta if she hadn’t been told. The most attention-seeking dish of the set menu is wood pigeon served with red vegetables, spiced bread sauce, salted lemon & orange purée, and a chilli chocolate sauce. It works against the odds.
All in all, it’s a virtuoso menu from Loubet and one that can be adapted to vegetarians (although vegans will need to notify the restaurant in advance). It’s also excellent value: the 8 course set menu is £39. Cocktails include a lavender margarita and a rhubarb negroni. This is a restaurant takeover for jaded palates: Grain Store Unleashed will be in place until August; we suggest you book straightaway.