You know that feeling when you rediscover a favourite jumper that has been squished at the back of the drawer; remember the joy at being reunited with it and disbelief that you hadn’t noticed its absence? We had that the other day when walking past fish mecca Randall & Aubin. Why the hell hadn’t we been for so long? It might not have the superficial razzle dazzle of newer Soho foodie siblings, but in the 17 years since it opened, it has quietly become an institution. And what better way to reacquaint ourselves than at this month’s Crabstock, which places a different crab-based dish at the centre of each menu – using crustaceans freshly delivered each morning. With chilli, garlic and a bowl of steamed rice; in Beignets served with crispy greens and creole-style remoulade; in a soup, burger or cake; or pickled and served with BBQ cucumber and samphire it sounds like a seriously summery lip-smacking proposition, whether washed down with champagne, French lemonade or an ice-cold beer.