Hotels
The Belmond Hotel Cipriani is one of the most gorgeous hotels we’ve stayed in and well worth the hype. A short boat ride away from the hustle and bustle of St Mark’s Square (there are free boats going back and forth every 10 minutes, 24 hours a day), it feels like a little haven of paradise. From the saltwater, olympic-sized swimming pool (even with lots of kids in it, it never felt full – apparently it’s the biggest hotel pool in Europe) to the beautiful gardens where Casanova used to serenade his ‘dates’. If the room rates are too steep, then do visit for an ice-cream or lunch at Il Porticciolo, the waterside restaurant with delicious fresh fish or Cip’s Club in the evening for a romantic meal looking over towards St Mark’s Square.
The Cima Rosa Boutique Bed & Breakfast is very small, offering only 5 rooms but it is well worth booking ahead. Simply but classically furnished bedrooms, it has a beautiful courtyard and the service is great. Three of the rooms have a view of the Grand Canal which can be a little noisy at times but well worth it for the feeling that you are really living like a Venetian.
Restaurants, bars & gelato!
We tried many ice cream shops in Venice but none came near Skye McAlpine’s top tip, La Mela Verde (Fondamenta de l’Osmarin, 4977A Venice, 30122) which was voted by my family, as the best gelato in town. Tucked away just behind St Mark’s Square, it serves the freshest ingredients, from sicilian hazelnut to summer peach sorbet. A don’t miss!
Al Covo feels like the real deal, a really authentic Venetian serving locally grown food. It feels and looks like an osteria but it’s food is elegant (no pizza here) and it’s a favourite amongst many locals.
For something more romantic, head to Harry’s Bar Dolci which sits right on the water and serves delicious food. It’s the perfect place to sip on a cocktail and watch the sunset.
Culture
The Doge’s Palace on St Mark’s Square, home to the Venetian Doge’s (rulers/magistrates) for over 1,000 years is extremely impressive. However, the long queues can be off putting – get ahead of the queues and use Get Your Guide to buy your tickets. Top Tip: when we visited, we were told it was sold out but we could still buy tickets online through this site. Then just go straight to the prepaid ticket section and you’ll glide straight in.
The Peggy Guggenheim Museum is situated on the grand canal and houses Peggy Guggenheim’s impressive art collection including Picassos, Brancusis and Calder mobiles. It is super popular though, so aim to go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. We loved the shop too – full of great quirky gifts to take back home.
Palazzo Fortuny is one of the best examples of Venetian Gothic architecture and not to be missed. The artist Mariano Fortuny had a studio there until his death in 1949 and the museum presents his lamps, textiles and clothing in an extremely evocative way.
Trips
We made some short trips from Venice by boat and they are an excellent way to see more of the area (as well as escape the crowds in high summer). Murano is the well known glass-making island very near to the mainland. You can go and see a tour of a glass making factory for free and see the glass makers in action (my kids were very impressed!) Nason Moretti is our favourite glass maker, although they don’t have a factory, just a shop. They supply glasses internationally to shops such as Svenkst Tenn.
We loved Torcello with it’s ancient Basilica and tower which you walk up to see a wonderful view of Venice. Don’t miss also the nearby restaurant Locanda Cipriani which serves delicious Venetian food in it’s beautiful gardens.
Colourful Burano is famous for it’s beautiful lacemakers and brightly painted houses (left). Our two top visits were the Trattoria da Romana, Hemingway’s favourite restaurant and Martina Vidal for the most wonderful lace and bed linens. Ask for Martina (or Sergio) and she will show you the factory and their beautiful rooftop terrace with some of the best views of the island.
Shopping
Some visitors might take home a mask, some Murano glass but the best find, in our eyes, is some Venetian slippers. And there isn’t a better shop than Vibi Venezia, set up by two Venetian sisters in 2015 who decided to update the handmade ‘Furlana’, the quintessential Venetian slipper invented in the 14th century and beloved by the gondoliers. Choose from the classic shapes to their latest collaboration with Emilia Wickstead.
Gianni Basso Stampatore, Calle del Fumo, Venice, 30100 is an absolutely charming, old school stationers selling everything from invitations to business cards all printed on vintage letterpresses. You can’t order by e-mail and there isn’t a website so you have to go in person. It’s our idea of heaven!
A Little Bird Loves
