There’s always been a bit of a Germanic feeling at Chris Corbin and Jeremy King’s restaurants (from The Wolseley’s ever popular Bircher muesli to The Delaunay’s man-sized line up of Wieners & Schnitzels) but now the duo in their latest project, Fischer’s, have embraced the Viennese mood to the letter, so much so that you will probably feel as though you really have stumbled upon an old family-run fin de siècle café rather than the latest addition to Marylebone High Street. From the sumptuous leather banquettes and bentwood chairs and the glossy wood-panelled walls that are lined with old portraits or photographs to the old-style Fischer’s clock that hangs in an imposing position in the middle of the dining room, everything here contrives to make the space feel like it’s been here forever – rather than the week or so that it’s actually been open.
And although there are a few of the favourite dishes from the duo’s sister restaurants, the menu here is a proper tribute to the hearty, meaty dishes of Austria with an extensive Schnitzel and Wurstchen menu as well as mini Brotchen for teatime (little ryebread open sandwiches) and a scrumptious line-up of sweet treats including strudels and rich cakes like Sachertorte or Esterhazy Schnitten – a delicious layered meringue and cream cake. We have to admit that it can feel a little heavy on a midsummer’s day. But we suspect that it will come into its own in the winter – and we can’t wait to try the Schololadengenuss – a grand cru kalinga chocolate served with a jug of hot milk. It almost makes us yearn for autumn.
