Allard, 41 rue St-André-des-Arts, 6th Arrondissement.
A buzzy brasserie with all the things I like: poulet de bresse for two, a pot of veal sweetbreads, and simple things like a plate of sauteed girolles to start. It’s always full to the brim—to the point where you may as well be having dinner with those at the next door table.
Chez George, 1 Rue du Mail, 2nd Arrondissment.
One of the great city’s great remaining bistro’s. It’s long, thin, 1920s style room has tables set close together, making it a very convivial dining space – our neighbours insisted on feeding us whilst we waited for our starters to arrive. The food is typical of an old fashioned french bistro: when we were there, crispy endive tossed with crisp chunks of bacon and a soft poached egg was delicious, a large bowl of french bean and ox cheek salad was passed from table to table, and the star of the show was the the onglet de beouf—a skirt steak that needed little more than seasoning, with sweet and perfectly cooked shallots. If you are looking for a slice of old-fashioned Paris, this is it.
L’ami Louis, 32 rue du Vertbois, 3rd Arondissment.
I have fond memories of this place, not just because its does the most amazing (and the most expensive) roast chicken I have ever eaten, but because I owe a lot to it. The simplicity and presentation of the food, as well as the down-to-earthiness of this restaurant, were great inspirations for me when I began thinking about starting out on my own—the roast chicken and chips we now serve at Hix Oyster & Chop House and HIX didn’t come from nowhere.
