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Photo London at Somerset House

With other 500 artists showing from 111 galleries, this fourth edition of Photo London is more momentous than ever. Indulging in epic chromogenic masterpieces, gem-like polaroids and assorted Photographs on a Postcard, we traversed the elegant wings and terraces of Somerset House to bring you our pick of the photographic crop…

‘The agency of light alone’

Cornelia Parker photogravure etching inSun Pictures Then and Now: Talbot and his Legacy Today, part of the Photo London Public Programme. Credit: Louise Long

Ease into this oft complex technical world with Sun Pictures Then and Now: Talbot and his Legacy Today – an insight into the early invention of the medium by William Henry Fox Talbot. Alongside contemporary responses – notably Cornelia Parker’s ethereal photogravures of glassware, and Adam Fuss’s psychedelic floral photograms. Transcribing elements from the natural world with further camera-less techniques – Michael Flomen at Duran Mashaal Gallery. Presenting pleasingly crumpled photograms and colour-saturated abstract chromogenic prints.

The sculptural act

Es Devlin MASK, part of the Photo London Public Programme. Credit: Louise Long

Hailing from operatic theatre to Beyoncé’s world tours, Es Devlin’s set-design-spectacle has been channelled into MASK– a mesmerising projection-mapped installation, overlaying the touch of human hands onto the urban fabric. Meanwhile, examining the earth from the other end of the telescope is Edward Burtynsky, the 2018 Photo London Master of Photography whose self-proclaimed focus is on the ‘sculptural’ translation of the field. Luxuriate in the sublime technicality of his aerial views, from latest project Anthropocene. For other three-dimensional triumphs, see Tom Lovelace at Flowers Gallery and Filip Berendt Monomyth series – combining black and white photography with geometric blocks of colour (L’Etrangère).

“We are all making Stuff”…

Arash Fewzee showing with Rubber Factory, a contemporary art gallery on New York’s Lower East Side, focusing on conceptual photography. Credit: Louise Long

In the words of Es Devlin; whether we like it or not. But expanding the vernacular of photography are Arash Fewzee’s largescale colour-drenched prints (Rubber Factory Gallery) – doorways into a complex, tactile world. Whilst Claudia Huidobro’s sensual collages, composed from strips of magazine imagery are a ‘ballad of femininity’ (Galerie Les Filles du Calvaire). We also delighted in Amanda Charchain’s handpainted series, along with Jo Dennis’ joyous multi-layered installation blurring the boundaries between painting and photography.

Seduced by landscape

Darren Almond Full Moon @ Baltic Coastline, in the Studio Room Gallery. Credit: Louise Long

Vast, meditative and unwaveringly beautiful: Darren Almond’s Fullmoonsolo exhibition from White Cube. Then to the visceral charge of the urban landscape – with Daido Moriyama’s Pavilion Commission, returning us to the enigmatic streets of Tokyo. And evoking the heady days of summer: Walter & Zoniel’s stained gelatine prints (Cob Gallery) – lyrical pastorals through which to escape the city.

Walter & Zoniel Call of the Idyll, showing with Cob Gallery. Credit: Louise Long

Nature Morte

Antonio Biasiucci, Pani e Crani, showing with Galleria del Cembalo from Rome. Credit: Louise Long

For a steely reminder of one’s mortality, make a bee line for Antonio Biasiucci’s striking black and white cranial still lives at Galleria del Cembalo. Or Marco Maria Zanin’s subtle compositions of objects from his grandfather’s rural life; some of the most exquisitely poetic images at the fair. From East Wing Gallery, Caleb Charland’s Back to Lightseries optimistically exploiting the still life as energy source. 

What to do with a million years

Senta Simond Rayon Vert, at Webber Gallery, part of the Discovery section of the fair. Credit: Louise Long

Or for those more short of time, TJ Boulting serves up an intense sherbet-y treat in the form of Juno Calypso’s surreal underground bunker self-portraits, alongside Maisie Cousins. ‘Grass, peonie, bum,’ a hedonistic sensory experience. Senta Simond at Webber offers an equally striking series of gestures, exploring a meteorological phenomenon through arresting portraits of friends. For an intense hit of glamour, see Erik Madigan Heck’s rapturous showcase at Christophe Guye or William Klein in 1950’s NYC (Howard Greenberg).

Jam is to Toast as..

…photography is to book-making. Take time to revel in the printed and bound on display at the fair, with favourites including Crystal Lebas Field Studiesor Stephen Gill Night Procession, both shortlisted for the Kraszna-Krausz Book Awards, as well as Are They Rocks or Cloudsby Marina Caneve, on the Book Dummy Awards shortlist. For collectors, exciting book signings abound – Joel Meyerowitz, Irene Kung, and Bruce Gilden to name a few.

Photographs on a Postcard display, fundraising for The Hepatitis C Trust. Credit: Louise Long

Finally, look out for hot-seats in the talks programme – we’re excited to hear what might be in-store next year at ‘Beyond Photography’, with conservation chaired by the brilliant Lucy Soutter.

Words and Pictures by Louise Long louiselong.co.uk

 

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Lisa Eldridge & William Welstead jewellery

I had the privilege of working with the lovely makeup artist Lisa Eldridge when I worked at Vogue and I’m not remotely surprised that she has amassed over 1.8 million followers on her Youtube channel.  She is extremely knowledgeable, fun and very good at her job – you only need to watch one of her videos to realise why many top celebrities such as Kate Winslet clamour to work with her.  When she noticed however, that the William Welstead rings that she was wearing on her videos (he also made her engagement ring) got almost as much attention as the makeup, she decided to collaborate on a jewellery collection with Welstead.  The results are gorgeous: brightly coloured gemstone rings in 30 different tones named after favourite clients such as the Lily, a smoky brown quartz liked by Lily Collins. You can sign up at Lisa’s website to buy the rings or find them at Dover Street Market where she will be launching the collection in store personally from 6-8pm today,  Thursday 17th May.  With a price point starting at $450 (far cheaper than Welstead’s mainline collection), we’re certain that these rings will be flying off the shelves.

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Andina Panaderia: London’s first Peruvian Bakery

We had already enjoyed the food at one of Martin Morales’ other hit South American restaurants, Ceviche, but we had no idea of what to expect at his Peruvian bakery.  The first thing you notice on entering Andina Panaderia, which opened this week on Westbourne Grove, is the most delicious smell of bread and the sight of bakers hard at work making numerous slow-fermenting loaves.  We tried (and bought) a sourdough plantain, pumpkin seeds, raisins and chia loaf fresh out of the oven which was gluten free and absolutely delicious.  The bakery specialises in traditional Peruvian sweet and savoury pastries and breads but you can also pick up mixed salads, smoothies and hot dishes – all either to eat in or take away.  To finish off (or have with a coffee), we highly recommend the Alfajor shortbread, a wonderfully light shortbread sandwich with Dulce de Latte.  And if you feel hungry for something more substantial, do visit their new sister Peruvian restaurant Andina Picanteria next door which features delicious roast chicken, grilled octopus and yellow fin tuna tartare on the menu.

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The Shop at Bluebird’s New Covent Garden Store

The iconic King’s Road The Shop at Bluebird lifestyle store has closed; The Shop at Bluebird, Covent Garden however is now, finally, well and truly open. Set over three floors, the Carriage Hall on Floral Street is the new mecca for uber designers such as Chloe, Alexander McQueen, Peter Pilotto and Ports 1961 as well as smaller labels like Isa Arfen, Rixo London, Ganni and Forte Forte.


The Grade II-listed building dates back to the 19th century and relies heavily on our increasing desire to ‘experience’ fashion and shopping in a fight against internet-shopping. Light floods in through the glass ceiling and highlights the whimsical décor and props.

There’s beauty including a Blink brow bar and Light Salon therapy rooms, and homewares as well as things to collect like Fornasetti plates and original illustrations and prints curated by the  Fashion Illustration Gallery. We challenge that there is no more uplifting shopping adventure to be had in London – go and visit!

 

 

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Summer Hairstyles and Where to Get Them

Summer calls for a slinkier haircut. We spoke to top hairdresser, John MacPherson – just back from the Star Wars LA premiere and now in Cannes – about this season’s trends. ‘Street style is important – I watch what people are wearing and work with that’, says John. That means a nod to the 90’s with bobs in many guises and colour is everywhere. Here are the essential cuts and styles to try now:

Messy Bob

@domdomhair

God forbid that your hair should look in any way ‘done’, the beachy, bed-head look is great for summer. Hairdressers achieve this by ‘dry cutting’ and then tonging small amounts of hair and shaking it out.

Where to get it: John MacPherson, Notting Hill  020 8969 8873 – best for bobs.

Spanish Bob

@salsalhair

They’re saying the perm is back. If you’re not quite ready for it, opt for this loose and wild Spanish bob. The curlier the better.

Where to get it: Charles Worthington, Tottenham Court Road – a very safe pair of hands.

The Bob with Short Fringe and Silver Hair

@brookshair

There are two trends going on here; the playful short fringe and silver hair which is definitely having a moment. Make sure yours is silver rather than grey by going to a trusted hairdresser rather that dying at home.

Where to get it: Aveda, High Holborn – great for both cut and colour.

Pixie Crop with Art

@windleandmoodie

You can really go to town with this look. We love this chic, simple take that packs a punch.

Where to get it: Windle & Moodie, Covent Garden – a fashion favourite.

Pastel Colour

@brookshair

It couldn’t be more timely to colour your hair – preferably a pastel colour – pink, lilac or purple.

Where to get it: Bluetit, Brixton – super edgy and great for a bold colour option.

DIY: Feeling brave? DIY colour with Schwarzkopf Live Pastel Colouration.

Rainbow Effect

This is a bang-on-trend, bold look and probably one best suited to the young.

Where to get it? Brooks & Brooks – winner of British Hairdresser of the Year 2017.

Oversized Plaits

The vogue for plaiting of all kinds, from tight braids to oversized plaits, is still huge; accessorise with velvet bows.

Where to get it: Hersheson’s Braid Bar, Toyshop Oxford Circus

 

 

 

 

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Frida’s Parlour Pop-Up

Alongside Chelsea Flower Show various sister events have sprung up; Chelsea Fringe, now in its seventh year runs a variety of garden and flower workshops all over town, and Chelsea in Bloom sees floral installations spring up in the shop windows of Sloane Street and the Kings Road. There’s also Belgravia in Bloom, where this year’s focus is on Frida Kahlo ahead of the major exhibition that opens next month at the V&A.

Frida Kahlo on a bench, carbon print, 1938, photo by Nickolas Muray © The Jacques and Natasha Gelman Collection of 20th Century Mexican Art and The Verge, Nickolas Muray Photo Archives

Frida’s Parlour is a pop-up interactive exhibition space inspired by Frida Kahlo’s famed residence in Mexico City, La Casa Azul (The Blue House). The free-to-enter Wallpaper Room is essentially a selfie-space where you can pose for a self-portrait in front of the backdrop from Nickolas Murray’s famous photograph of the artist. More exciting are the program of evening events on offer: Mexican cocktail workshops with Cubitt House, Self-Portraiture with Dan Whiteson, Floral embroidery with Lora Avedian, Mexican Bouquets with Moyses Stevens, Jewellery making with Luminaire Arts and more. Book early.

 

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The New Royal Academy Art Party

It is ten years since David Chipperfield RA’s architecture firm was appointed to head up the major building project to transform the Royal Academy. The New RA links Burlington House and 6 Burlington Gardens behind, and creates new exhibition and gallery spaces to display the RA’s vast collection. Now, in time for it’s 250th birthday, the new space is ready and will open this Saturday.

Weston Bridge and The Lovelace Courtyard. Credit: Simon Menges

In celebration the RA are throwing a free art party this weekend, with drop-in creative activities, performances, music and a night of DJ’s. Highlights include architectural model making with artist Seb Harding, pop-up poetry from Apples and Snakes, 20-minute tours and an art-filled after party with Born ‘n’ Bread. For the full program click here.

RA Collection Gallery. Credit: James Harris

As well as the Art Party events, explore the beautiful new spaces – new works on permanent display include Taddai Tondi, the only marble Michelangelo sculpture in the UK, as well as a nearly full size 16th century copy of Leonardo’s The Last Supper. The new exhibition space is being inaugurated by Tacita Dean in a fitting show, LANDSCAPE, that follows a genre beloved of Royal Academician’s like Constable, Gainsborough and Turner. And finally, stop for a coffee in the new Poster Bar, also opening on Saturday, and decorated with iconic posters from the RA’s 250 years of exhibitions.

 

 

 

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Wooden Garden Obelisks

Several years ago we posted about these fantastic wooden obelisks that we first discovered at a plant fair at Helmingham Hall in Suffolk. The company was then a start-up, specialising in hand-made garden structures which can be painted any colour you choose from Farrow & Ball or Little Greene.  Now exhibiting annually at RHS Chelsea Flower Show, the company has gone from strength to strength, expanding the range into wooden planters as well as the obelisks. We are still as big a fans as ever, particularly as they are now made with an environmentally friendly timber called Accoya, which has an exceptional durability and does not contain any toxic chemicals (unlike most other treated timbers). We think these white ones would make a particularly lovely present.

 

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Late May Sample Sales

Who: Gina & Cutler and Gross
What: Big discounts on womens shoes & designer sunglasses
When: 10 May 2018: 10am – 7pm
Where: The Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, W1K 5LF

Who: Joseph
What: Big discounts on own label womenswear & accessories plus other designer womenswear
When: 15 May 2018: 10am – 9pm, 16 – 17 May: 10am – 8pm, 18 May: 10am – 7pm & 19 May: 10am – 5pm
Where: The Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, W1K 5LF

Who: Jonathan Adler
What: Up to 70% off furniture, rugs & accessories
When: 15 May 2018: 2pm – 8pm, 16 – 17 May: 9am – 8pm, 18 May: 9am – 7pm & 19 May: 10am – 5pm (RSVP here)
Where: Rex House, 12 Regent Street, SW1Y 4SE

Who: 3.1 Phillip Lim 
What: Up to 75% off ready to wear, shoes & handbags
When: 17 May 2018: 9am – 7pm (RSVP here)
Where: The Yard, 89½ Worship Street, EC2A 2BF

Who: Goat
What: Big discounts on womenswear
When: 17 – 18 May 2018: 9.30am – 5pm
Where: Catherine House, 76 Gloucester Place, W1U 6HJ

Who: Isabel Marant & A.P.C. (plus Vanessa Seward and Repetto)
What: Up to 80% off womenswear & menswear from the Aime stores
When: 17 – 18 May 2018: 11am – 8pm, 19 May: 11am – 6pm & 20 May: midday – 5pm
Where: The BOX, 4-6 Ram Place, (Off Chatham Place), E9 6LT

Who: La Perla
What: Up to 80% off all womens nightwear, underwear & swimwear
When: 21 May 2018: 1pm – 8pm, 22 – 25 May: 8am – 8pm, 26 May: 9am – 7pm & 26 May: 9am – 5pm (Get your invitation and RSVP here)
Where: The Music Room, 26 South Molton Lane, W1K 5LF

Who: Caramel
What: Up to 75% off all womenswear, childrenswear & baby clothes plus shoes & accessories
When: 22 May 2018: 9.30am – 8pm
Where: St Hilda’s East Community Centre, E2 7EY

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Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier

Azzedine Alaïa never became a household fashion name. Visit the new exhibition of 60 Alaïa garments at the Design Museum (which he co-curated before he died last November) and you’ll realise his enormous influence on the fashion industry.  Alaïa began his career at Christian Dior and set up his own haute couture house in 1981 which fused cutting edge technology with 19th century techniques, quickly becoming the go-to designer for a role call of celebrities including Greta Garbo, Grace Jones and Tina Turner (more recent clients include Lady Gaga and Beyonce).

Tina Turner & Azzedine Alaia under the Eiffel Tower by Peter Lindbergh, 1989 © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy Peter Lindbergh, Paris)

The dresses on show in this exhibition are simply shown on tall mannequins standing together in groups but the detail on them is extraordinary.  Alaïa originally studied to be a sculptor at the School of Fine Art in Tunis and his dresses drape and flatter the female body using perforated leather, chiffon and elastic (the latter for the ‘bandelette’ 1980s ‘bandage’ dresses inspired by Egyptian mummies) with great skill.  As Naomi Campbell once said, ‘No other dress can make a woman look and feel as good as an Alaïa dress because it cinches the body perfectly.’

White Bandelette Dress © Andrea&Valentina

An art collector, costume designer for ballet and opera and gallery owner, Alaïa was a cultural polymath but it is his consummate skill as a fashion innovator for which he will most be remembered and which this poignant exhibition is an elegant and fascinating reminder.

Alaïa ETE 1992 book, published by Assouline, with photos and text by Prosper Assouline on the occasion of Azzedine Alaïa’s 1992 Summer Collection ©Prosper Assouline for Alaïa: Livre de Collection, Assouline

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Skye McAlpine at the Violet Bakery

We’ve poured longingly over the photographs in Skye McAlpine’s new cookbook, A Table in Venice but we can’t say we’ve attempted all the recipes yet. For your chance to taste the Venetian delights in all their glory, drop in to The Violet Bakery this Saturday, 12 May. Claire Ptak and her team will be welcoming Skye and serving up pastries from her book, as she chats to customers, signs books and shares her top tips on the best places to eat in Venice. A heavenly way to spend a Saturday morning with no booking required.

 

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Lina Stores – 51 Greek Street

It is always a treat to step inside Lina Stores with its heaving shelves of shiny amaretti tins and Bialetti coffee makers’ and inviting deli counter freshly stocked with little ravioli, cured hams and tempting  antipasti. A Soho institution, the deli at 18 Brewer Street has been making fresh pasta since 1944, and has long been known as London’s top destination for Italian produce.

Now, Lina Stores has opened a restaurant on nearby Greek Street. Serving up the proscutti, cheeses and antipasti that we’re familiar with from the shop as starters, the menu includes a small selection of delicious fresh pasta dishes; Tortellini in brodo, Fusi all’Arrabiata; Spaghetti chitarra with baby clams and bottarga and Gnocchi stuffed with fresh ricotta and white truffle. There’s something of Wes Anderson’s Bar Luce about the interiors; think mint green counters, globe pendant lighting and formica chairs. Split across two floors, sip a blood orange bellini at the bar and watch the goings-on in the kitchen, or head downstairs and bag a green tiled banquette with a gang of friends.

It’s goodbye for now…

The team at A Little Bird are taking a break to recharge and make some exciting changes behind-the-scenes. We look forward to seeing you again soon.

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