Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones OBE is the milliner-in-demand who has made bespoke hats for everyone from Mick Jagger to the Duchess of Sussex and from Lady Gaga to Grace Jones.  Opening his first shop in Covent Garden in the 1980s, he has since collaborated with designers Rei Kawakubo (making hats and perfumes), John Galliano at Dior and Vivienne Westwood, amongst many others.  Opening today is Stephen Jones at the Royal Pavilion in Brighton, in partnership with Harvey Nichols, an exhibition which showcases some of Jones’ most outstanding creations, from a giant swan headdress to a knitted ‘English breakfast’ hat.  To celebrate the opening, Jones reveals all about where to eat, his favourite hat and top tips for any novice hat wearer.

Where do you live and why?

I live in a house just by Battersea Park, which used to belong to a milliner.

What are your favourite places to eat and drink?

In London, probably The Delaunay, because I can fall out of the front of my shop, tumble down Drury Lane and end up at The Delaunay. Either that or at home with a very simple salad, made by my husband Craig West.

The Delaunay

You are well known for having created hats for The Duchess of Sussex amongst many other royals.  Which other top regal hats will be on display at the show and why the recreation of the hat worn by King George IV from a 1782 portrait?

There are many regal hats that are on display. There is Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex; there is Lady Sarah Chatto, Princess Margaret’s daughter; Princess Eugenie. Also there are many crowns being displayed, the Crown I made for Christian Dior Autumn Winter 20015 Haute Couture collection, worn by Lily Cole and even one crown made for Suzy Menkes, which is made out of miniature Suzies. At the ‘banquet’ I am hosting in the exhibition, King George IV along with the Duchess of Sussex, are my guests of honour, but none of his original hats exist, so I recreated this hat from his portrait from 1782.

Stephen Jones’ Crown for Comme des Garçons Spring Summer 2006, Photographer: Lesley Robeson

Which is your favourite room in the exhibition and why?

The Music Room, because it redefines the word spectacular.

The Royal Pavilion, East Lawn

Is there anybody that you haven’t designed a hat for that you still wish to?

So many people, and there are new people all the time. From history, Elisabeth Taylor or Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother. Similarly I have never made a hat for Willow Smith.

Which is your favourite hat that you own?

Well, it changes all the time, but possibly the leather beret that I created for Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior.

Stephen Jones in the Music Room of the Royal Pavilion with hats made for the statue of George IV in Trafalgar Square (and his horse) for the London Olympics in 2012 © Tessa Hallmann/Royal Pavilion & Museums, Brighton & Hove

Who are your 3 favourite people/accounts to follow on Instagram?

@Sheridan.Barnett – who was one of my teachers at Saint Martins school of Art, who posts about 20 pictures a day. It’s an extraordinary art and fashion reference.

@MrKimJones – because I know he does it personally and I love pictures of his teapot Pomeranian called ‘Cookie’.

@jackyblue_ aka Jacky Marshall, the illustrator who created the image for my exhibition in Brighton.

What would be your advice for a novice hat wearer?

Try on as many hats as possible, because people tend to think they are a brim and a crown, but a hat can be many, many different sorts of things.

 

February Book Club

Our February book of the month is Whitney Scharer’s debut novel The Age of Light. The photographer Lee Miller led such an extraordinary life that we are surprised that she has not been the subject of a novel before. Kate Winslet has been slated to play the twentieth century icon in a new film of her life but before that, we have Scharer’s brilliant novel. Set largely in 1930s Paris and charting Miller’s relationship with the photographer Man Ray and her emergence as an artist in her own right, it also flashes forwards to her career as a war correspondent and her marriage to ICA founder Roland Penrose. Scharer’s great skill is unearthing the woman behind her well-known image.

Please do read along with us, and we’ll be reviewing the book in our newsletter on Thursday 7 March 2019. We also have three copies of Whitney Scharer, The Age of Light to give away. For your chance to win a copy of the book, enter our competition below:

 

The Joy of Keeping a Notebook

Diaries have gone digital, meaning we treasure our notebooks all the more. Thoughts, scribbles, To Do lists, swatches of fabric, projects we’re working on, class lists, invoices, films to see and books we’d like to read – these notebooks are just waiting to be filled:

Personalised colour block notebook, lined £19.99 at Papier
Spiral-bound with a satisfying chunky coil, lined, £9 Penco at The Conran Shop
Handmade using an antique method of printing this exquisite book, made in Paris, will make you smile every day. Blank, £32 at The Shop Floor Project
Falling cubes notebooks never go out of style. Blank, £16.50 at Pentreath & Hall
Writing is one of the best forms of therapy. This notebook is perfect for imaginary or literal journeys alike. Dot grid, £15 from The School of Life at The Design Museum
William Morris print handmade journal, lined, £12.99 at V&A Shop
This initial notebook opens at the top rather than the side. With a gold letter on each page it’s good for tearing off to send a note, £12 at Kate Spade
Bloom notebook with lay flat binding, blank £13.50 at Esme Winter
Liberty print floral fabric-lined A5 notebook £20 at Liberty
Gold leather journal, blank, £26 at Anthropologie
A think of beauty. This large format notebook is the most exquisite colour with delicate lined pages and a pretty sliding clasp to boot. £225 at Smythson
Similar in style to the Smythson ones but much more affordable. These come in leather or pellaq (vegan version). Add your own fun titles to the journals, £30 at Organise Us

Fee Greening Live Drawing at Fortnums

We’re great fans of illustrator Fee Greening, and her wonderful Body Language prints, trinket pots and illustrations. If you’re looking for something a little more personal this Valentine’s Day, make a beeline for Fortnum’s where Fee will be sitting beneath her prints and Live Drawing on Saturday 9 February. Watch her in action and buy unique and special pieces on the theme of love.

V&A Create! Dior-Inspired Fashion Design workshop for Teens

Budding young fashion designers, and fans of the new Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition should sign up for this Saturday workshop in March. Especially for ages 13-15, designer and lecturer Juliana Sissons will show you how to draw ideas for contemporary outfits, as well as explaining how some of the garments on display were made.

No prior experience is necessary and it’s advised to bring a packed lunch.

Anya Hindmarch’s Weave Project

First came the Chubby Hearts that put a smile on faces all over London, and next came the sell-out Chubby Cloud – offering meditative experiences on the world’s largest beanbag. And now you can get tickets for Anya Hindmarch’s latest installation, The Weave Project.

Just in time for London Fashion Week, the immersive experience will take place over four days from Saturday 16th – Tuesday 19th February at Brewer Street Car Park. The art piece will feature The Tube created by artists collective Numen/For Use – essentially a blue woven mesh tube that you can climb inside. Play about and experience the structure from unexpected and surreal angles.

The Weave Project is inspired by Anya Hindmarch’s SS19 Neeson Bag that will be launching at LFW and the idea is to experience the bag from the inside-out. If the Cloud is anything to go by, it’s worth booking your ticket well ahead. Each time slot is for 30 minutes and it’s only suitable for children over the age of 6.

Hiking Boots for the Snow

Hiking boots are back in vogue. Shop our edit and crunch through the snow in style:

Penelope Chilvers boots are an investment, but they’re well-made and really do last. We love this season’s black suede Pioneer boots (left) and these aptly-named Incredible boots (above),  with a full sheepskin shearling lining to take you anywhere from London’s pavements to the ski resort, £389.

Arguably it was Ganni who kicked off the trend for hiking boots, pairing them with their ditzy-print dresses at Copenhagen Fashion Week in 2017. Snap up this season’s Winter Boot, €349.

Designed in Stockholm, these chunky lace-up snow boots will keep toes toasty. £129 stories.com

Blend in with the snow in a pair of classic Grensons hiker boots in bold white calf leather. £265

These classic leather lace-up boots are good value at £79, shop.mango.com

Chunky Italian-made Montelliana boots in a pretty grey suede with pink shearling and silver laces. £328 matchesfashion.com

Hiking boots smartened up with navy nubuck with a navy faux fur trim that can be turned down, £295 at russellandbromley.co.uk

How to stay Vegan beyond January

It’s not so long ago that I found even the suggestion of meat-free Mondays difficult so I was under no illusion that going vegan would be easy. But they say you can make or break a habit in 30 days and I was keen to experiment, not least to get me off the hook from feeling compelled to attempt an alternative hair-shirting post-festivities detox like Dry or Red (Run Every Day) January. Here’s what I have learnt:

• It takes commitment (when the going gets tough it seems easier to flash-fry a steak) but also a whole lot of preparation – especially if you want to do healthy vegan.

Veganism is now so mainstream that there are ready meals aplenty but many over-compensate by adding way too much salt and sugar. Notable exceptions are Deliciously Ella’s new range and All Plants. As I have learned, it is the delicate balance of herbs and spices, pulses and grains that can more than match the traditional meat and two veg.

• Get your spices, pulses, seeds and beans in order: stock up on esoteric herbs like asafoetida (to alleviate the inevitable wind … don’t worry, it eases) and spice combinations like garam marsala. Buy in Biona beans such as black-eyed beans and haricot beans as well as freekah, lentils and coconut milk.

• Don’t be tempted to put a whole load of vegan products in your shopping basket, hoping for the best. I am a buy-the-best-I-could-afford meat and fish and throw it all together cook, but cooking vegan requires research to bring out the best flavours. Thankfully there are many expert cookery writers to help.

• If you are eating out, check that the restaurant has a vegan menu or at least a couple of options. And get proper reassurance that they don’t just take out the non-vegan ingredient, which has happened on more than one occasion. I had actually got email reassurance from one well-known restaurant that they had full vegetarian menu that they can adapt to vegan; I ended up with a small plate of lentils.

• You’ll need to take B12 vitamin supplement; if you go vegan long-term, it’s wise to get your bloods checked to see if your body is not getting specific vitamins. It is also hard to know how much protein your body needs.

• Don’t attempt veganism if you don’t like aubergine or tomatoes!

Recommended Vegan Cookery Books and the Best Recipes

Anna Jones

I have had two of her books for years and there’s no better vegetarian chef or writer out there. Highlights from A Modern Way to Eat include:

  • Tomato and coconut cassoulet – the sourdough (the best is from Poilâne if you can get it) makes this dish; you will be scraping the bottom of your Le Creuset pot to finish it.
  • • Bay and saffron-roasted cauliflower
  • Mushroom and parsnip rosti – make this for a dinner party or special occasion as it looks stunning.
  • • Lemon maple granola – low fat and low sugar. So simple to make and it keeps well too. Top with coconut yoghurt and pomegranate or berries.

And from Anna Jones A Modern Way to Cook:

Ottolenghi Simple

Though not vegan, there are plenty of recipes in this book that are either vegan or can be adapted. Favourites are:

15 Minute Vegan by Katy Beskow

This is an essential book. Particularly good for inventive side dishes like broccoli with orange and chilli, relishes like pomegranate, cucumber and mint, snacks – particularly the flapjacks and salad dressings. Her Kerala cauliflower curry is a favourite.

The Plant-based Cookbook by Deliciously Ella

This is another essential book that’s full of simple, failsafe recipes. Follow her online too as she posts new recipe ideas all the time. My favourites include

  • Mushroom and chestnut sliders – spiced and herby
  • Sri Lankan curry – one of the absolute highlights of the month, we have made this a few times. With a whole tin of coconut milk, it feels indulgently creamy.
  • • Aubergine and fennel curry

Great British Chefs 

Great British Chefs recently won Best Website Award at the Good Web Guides. It’s easy to see why – there are so many great recipes there including plenty for vegans. Take note of the preparation time tho as some can run into hours. We liked:

The Spruce Eats

This blog is useful for recipe ideas – and the falafel is particularly good. The trouble with the delcious ones in the supermarket (Cauldron etc) is that they are deep fried at 65 calories a pop. This low-fat, baked recipe (I substitute a red onion for the white one) looks and tastes wonderful.

Madhur Jaffery’s Ultimate Curry Bible

Many of these delicious curry recipes can be adapted to be vegan. My favourite is the cauliflower and grated tomato curry.

 

Daisy Bridgewater, Founder of Spry Workwear

It is with zeitgeist precision that Daisy Bridgewater has fast-tracked her small business to the forefront of this season’s biggest fashion item: the boiler suit. Based in rural Suffolk but a regular visitor to London, we caught up with the designer and entrepreneur:

What inspired you to design workwear?

I have always liked the work wear aesthetic and I think it translates very well into women’s wear. We expect to accomplish so much in a single day as women, and I wanted to design the uniform: clothes that would work hard, yet look cool. Since moving from London to the countryside I have also developed a deep-set fear of fleeces. 

What does your working day consist of?

I am still a one-woman band so my days are pretty freeform. I wish I could be more disciplined and I think having a business partner would help get more structure into my working days, so if anyone out there is interested …! A typical day might include a visit to the factory to discuss the next production run, a lot of fiddling around with tissue paper as I pack and wrap my orders and some active accounts and admin avoidance. I tend to get a lot of enquiries about sizing and often find my inbox full of lovely feedback from customers. I think customers really appreciate the direct interaction they can have with a small business and I put a lot of time into this.

What aspect of the business has proved the most challenging and which the easiest?

The greatest challenges for me are in production – getting the right quantities of stock made in the UK for the right price at the right time. I have always been instinctive and have a tendency to run with an idea. You have to be so much more organised when you are dealing with factories and production runs. I am never short of ideas, and I love telling stories, so I have found the brand building and marketing much easier. 

What advice would you give a new designer/entrepreneur?

Keep at it and don’t give up your day job. Work your contacts and do not be too proud to ask for help.

Do your family get involved in any aspect/how do you combine with having a family?

I have teenage sons who help me with the heavy lifting, loading and unloading stock from the van and helping me set up at festivals and pop ups. They are getting quietly more interested as boiler suits are now very much part of the contemporary fashion narrative, not just some strange project their mum keeps banging on about. 

Which medium have you found most effective to reach your target customers? 

I love the fact that word of mouth still seems to be the most powerful – I get a lot of new customers referred by existing ones. 

Do you use social media?

Instagram is amazingly powerful and I get a lot of sales through my posts (but I have to say it makes me feel quite panicky – like I am not trying hard enough). 

You used to write the children’s page in the Telegraph magazine. Would you consider designing for children?

I always thought that I would but there is some such good children’s workwear out there already and I think the sizing would be a minefield. 

What do you love most about living in the country?

The space and the potential for solitude. The way it makes you slow down and appreciate things that might pass you by in London: colours, smells, sounds. And I love keeping animals – I have a small-holders licence and keep long-haired pigs and fancy chickens.

Where is your go-to place in London?

I love the energy of Shoreditch – so utterly different from Suffolk Brick Lane and Columbia Road. My favourite restaurant is Leroy’s on Christina Street. 

What fashion trends will you be adopting this year? 

I’m sticking with boiler suits.

Did you make a New Year’s resolution? Did you stick to it? 

I’m not drinking during weekdays, and yes, I have stuck to it so far. I tried to give up butter but that lasted about 24 hours. 

What book are you reading? 

I’ve just finished Normal People by Sally Rooney and started Liberty, a collection of Virginia Woolf essays. 

Do you have a favourite app?

Not really – I don’t play games on my phone. Maybe I am missing out but I just can’t imagine when I would.

La Vie Parisienne

Christian Dior’s dreamy dresses, buttery croissants and must-have berets; this week we’re in love with all things Parisian. Here we share the best ways to embrace la vie parisienne without leaving London:

Expositions

Princess Margaret, © Cecil Beaton, V&A

After years of wartime rationing arrived ‘The New Look’. The year was 1947 and Christian Dior wowed all of Paris with his image of ultra-femininity, dresses nipped in at the waist, busts and hips accentuated for the new silhouette. He went on to make clothes for everyone from filmstars to Princess Margaret, whose 21st birthday ballgown is a central feature of the V&A’s new show, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, which opens this Saturday. The exhibition more than rivals Alexander McQueen’s in the same setting four years ago. The exquisite and varied (yet still all identifiably Dior) outfits cover the whole Dior era from 1947 to the present day. The pieces are juxtaposed and in many cases it is hard to guess when they were created, so timeless do they all feel (perhaps with an exception of the 80s’ creations). Be transported and inspired in this truly spellbinding exhibition. 2 February – 14 July 2019 at the V&A.

Cinéma

For French film, the Art Deco screening room at Ciné Lumière in South Ken is the place to go. Housed within the Institut Français, there’s also an excellent program of talks – we like the sound of a Q&A on Midnight in Paris with Anne Seibel, the film’s Oscar-nominated Art Director on 14 February, 6.30pm. Also, the Dior double-bill; a talk with the V&A Fashion and textiles curator Oriole Cullen and French set designer Nathalie Crinière on the making of the new exhibition, followed by a screening of Drawings of Christian Dior – a creative biography by Loïc Prigent, showing 14 March, talk 6.30pm, film 7.35pm.

And at cinemas across town this month you can whisk off to fin de siècle Paris where the young Colette (Keira Knightley) is seduced and married by man of letters, Willy (Dominic West). Struggling with his output, Colette begins to ghostwrite his book, turning out a bestseller about her childhood in rural France, but who’ll get the glory? Watch the trailer for Colette here and book tickets now, showing in cinemas from 25 January.

Les Enfants 

Immerse them in French culture from a young age with Club Petit Pierrot where fun French lessons, parties, playtime and storytelling sessions for children and babies aged 0-8 are conducted entirely in French. Holiday Clubs run at half term 18- 22 February 2019 and Easter 8 – 12 April 2019 for ages 3-5 and 6-8 in Chelsea.

Librairie française

A caravansérail is a roadside inn where merchants and nomads used to stop and spend the night. The sort of place perhaps, where different cultures might share books and ideas. A good name then for this charming bookshop in Shoreditch where you’ll find a whole range of titles in French and English from classics to contemporary fiction to graphic novels and children’s books. They also host a selection of exhibitions and literary talks.

And for second hand books, La librairie in the little French enclave of Brook Green is particularly good. Find children’s books, recipe books, fiction, collectibles and a selection of French snacks and sweets too.

Manger 

Petit Déj: It’s an unlikely spot for a boulangerie parisienne but King Street in Hammersmith is where you’ll find the best croissant in town. After running a bakery in the 13th arrondissement for over 20 years, the owners of Patisserie Sainte-Anne moved to London in 2014 trailing the irresistible scent of fresh baguette in their wake. Everything here is made on the premises using tip top ingredients including French Charentes Poitou butter for the croissants, naturally.

Déj: Dine properly at Frenchie in Covent Garden. At lunchtime the set menu (2 courses for £27, 3 for £30) might include a starter of duck fois gras with blood orange followed by smoked pork belly with a lentil ragu.

Diner: Sacrilege it may be for a Parisian to opt for a dish from Gascony, but it’s worth crossing the line for Monsieur Le Duck, the new Spitalfields restaurant that specialises in canard et frites. Afterwards there are French desserts like creme brûlée and tarte aux pommes or a cheeseboard trio of savarin, comte and chèvre. It’s hard to beat Brasserie Zedel for steak frites, L’Escargot for garlicky snails and Blanchette for crispy frogs legs.

Le Shopping 

The quest to achieve French girl style is age old. Make a beeline for South Molton Street where our favourite French brands Maje, The Kooples, Sandro, Ba&Sh, Zadig & Voltaire and Claudie Pierlot are neighbours. The same names are also clustered around Westbourne Grove, where you’ll also find Parisian brand-of-the-moment Sézane. With a cult following for their online-only capsule collections the label has since introduced ateliers in Paris, London and New York – particularly good for silk blouses and pretty knitwear. And of course the queen of nonchalant cool, Isabel Marant has a shop in Bruton Street, and we’re still fans of A.P.C for classics like striped tees and jeans.

A la mode

Edie Campbell’s iconic Itchy Scratchy Patchy berets are handmade in France and regularly sell out – get this Anarchy beret online or find the range at Dover Street Market. Other stitched motifs include Solidarity and Justice.

The chicest Parisians go to Maison Bonnet for their lunettes. Lucky for us that their first UK shop landed in Mayfair late last year; have your eyes tested at their laboratory-atelier and then the fun begins fitting your perfect frames.

Maison

The very first Caravane boutique opened in the Marais over 20 years ago, subsequently spreading its wings to Lyon, Bordeaux, Nice, Copenhagen and a tiny slip of a shop in Marylebone, before settling on the new Coal Drops Yard for its largest space of all. A visit there will fill you with inspiration for creating French style at home. Known for their beautiful throws, counterpanes and bed linen, we also love their recycled balloon glasses.

Chinese New Year at Bun House

Chinese New Year falls on Tuesday 5 February and 2019 is the year of the Pig, symbol of wealth and fortune. The annual parade of colourful floats that snakes through Chinatown (this year on Sunday 10 February 2019) is something that all Londoners should experience at least once. For fans of Chinese food, the occasion is also the perfect excuse to go out for dim sum or better still, these sweet little piggy buns. Filled with hot sticky char sui pork the ‘Piggy Buns’ will be served 1-10 February at Bun House, the makers of London’s tastiest bao. Yum!

January – February Sample Sales

Who: Chinti & Parker
What: Up to 80% off womenswear (free entry, cash and cards accepted, no refunds or exchanges)
When: 29 January – 1 February 2019: 9am – 7pm Tuesday to Thursday, 9am – 6pm Friday
Where: Chinti & Parker Pop-Up Store, 186 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RH

Who: The One & Only Designer Sale 
What: Up to 80% off womenswear from designers including YSL, Prada, Philipp Plein, Burberry, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Moschino, Vivienne Westwood etc. (£2 entry fee for charity, RSVP here)

When: 1 February 2019: 12 – 7.30pm and 2 February 2019: 11am – 5.30pm
Where: 12 Regent Street, St James’s, SW1Y 4PE

Who: Skandium
What: Up to 70% off discontinued lines, warehouse clearance and ex-display (free entry)
When: 2 – 3 February 2019: 10.30am – 6pm
Where: 13 Margaret Street, W1W 8RN

Who: J Brand and Etre Cecile
What: Up to 80% off womenswear and menswear
When: 8 February 2019: 11am – 8pm; 9 February 2019: 11am – 6pm & 10 February 2019: midday – 5pm
Where: The BOX, 4-6 Ram Place (off Chatham Place), E9 6LT

Who: Ian Sanderson 
What: Up to 70% off end-of-line fabrics
When: Until 31 January 2019
Where: Online here

Who: Sophie Hulme
What: Up to 80% off womenswear and accessories
When: 22 February 2019: 11am – 7.30pm, 23 February 2019: 11am – 6pm, 24 February 2019 12 – 5.30pm
Where: The BOX, 4-6 Ram Place (off Chatham Place), E9 6LT

It’s goodbye for now…

The team at A Little Bird are taking a break to recharge and make some exciting changes behind-the-scenes. We look forward to seeing you again soon.

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