Christmas letters sent straight from Father Christmas himself. It’s a magical idea and one that is beautifully carried out by the company Polar Post (aka Charlotte Wood and Geoffrey the Elf). Little ones can write their own Christmas list, tuck it beside their bed only to find a magical letter has arrived in the morning. The personalised and sealed envelope bearing the Christmas coat of arms and stamped with a Magic Hedgerow stamp opens to reveal a letter with all the news from the North Pole with details of each child weaved in (siblings can even receive different stories).
Also on the site is a brilliant selection of stocking fillers, books and decorations. And don’t forget to order your letter now – the last date for UK orders is 10 December but bear in mind that each letter takes 12 days to turn around.
Party season is nearly upon us. Avoid drinking every single night with the new cocktail book from Seedlip that shows you how to knock-up delicious alcohol-free cocktails that still feel like having a grown up drink. Fizzy elderflower no more. Here we share three recipes from Ben Branson’s new book:
MR HOWARD (left) This cocktail is named after Stewart Howard, one of the rst people in the world to serve Seedlip.
How did she juggle motherhood with the demands of the White House? How did her childhood growing up on the South Side of Chicago prepare her for life as a First Lady? Find out as Michelle Obama shares her story in front of a live audience at The Southbank’s Royal Festival Hall this December.
The first event of its kind in the UK, Michelle Obama will be discussing her new memoir, Becoming with Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, the best-selling author of Purple Hibiscus, Half of a Yellow Sun,We Should All Be Feminists etc. The event is being hosted by Penguin Live, and as part of her work in support of young people Michelle Obama will be donating 300 free tickets to secondary school pupils from across London and the UK. The rest will be available to the general public at 10am on Thursday 8 November. Sure to be a sell out, set an alarm for 10am and follow the link below to book.
Ages 14+. Each ticket includes a copy of Michelle Obama Becoming (RRP £25.00, supplied by Waterstones).
Have you written your Christmas cards yet? For Jennifer Grant, bespoke stationer, production has been in full swing for months. Responsible for every single design for her newly-launched bespoke stationery company Romeo + Jules, Jennifer is kept busy dreaming up the most beautiful handmade invitations, notecards, letterheads and more. Here we catch up with the former British Vogue Art Director about life running her new stationery label:
Where’s home?
We live in Notting Hill which is an area of the world I find so inspiring. From the candy coloured houses to the hand painted signs along Portobello, the area is full of variety.
Why the decision to set up Romeo + Jules?
The impetus behind the launch of Romeo + Jules was two fold: first and foremost to give me a creative outlet in the time frames I needed with two young children. And secondly, to disarm the concept that stationery needs to be formal. I love the idea of sending a card that bears a sweet (or cheeky!) phrase to bring a smile to the receiver’s face.
Can you explain the name?
Named to evoke emotions, in a modern sense, R+J’s design aesthetic revolves around a sense of whimsy blended with strength for stationery that leaves a lasting impression. And similar to the art of dressing, the stationery aims to present the writer in an equally fashionable approach. After all, life is too short for bad stationery!
Credit: Helene Sandberg
Who actually designs your cards and how does the process work?
All of the designs are created by yours truly at the moment, but as R+J is growing, so to is my need for some help. While each commission is utterly unique, the design process is quite similar in that inspiration is sparked by the individual themselves. From a love of colour or an event’s venue for example, each element plays a part of the design process. At the moment, I’m creating a unique invitation for a client’s fortieth in which we are celebrating the water elements surrounding the party venue by using a variety of blue papers, cut in interesting ways.
What’s your favourite thing to receive in the post?
I pretty much revert to a small child each time I get the post, or better yet, when my lovely postman arrives at the door with a special delivery. Any coloured envelope will grab my attention the quickest, especially those envelopes that include a special design.
What your favourite place for an evening out?
London has so many fantastic restaurants, however I’m quite loyal to the tried and tested. A pre-dinner beverage at my little wine bar with a lot of soul, Negozio Classica, followed by Thai at the Churchill Arms is a perfect winter’s night for me!
Are you doing any stationery for Christmas?
Bespoke Christmas commissions are already in full swing. So much so that my head is fully immersed in the spirit and I wished someone a lovely Christmas the other day. I do have some final spaces available for a few last Christmas commissions! (enquire here)
Favourite festive thing to do in London?
London turns into such a magical place at Christmas, and this year we’ll be taking our little ones ice skating for the first time at the Natural History Museum. Fingers crossed it goes well and becomes our new tradition.
What are your thoughts on social media?
I have to admit, I have a love/hate affair with social media. It can be such a wonderful tool and a fantastic sense of escapism but I do feel like I need a break from it as well from time to time. A short walk for fresh air or digging through a stack of old magazines can be equally cathartic for me.
What’s in the pipeline for Romeo + Jules?
There’s lots to come from R+J in the coming months, specifically a very exciting evening with Jonathan Adler and Front Row Florist on 20 November where we’ll be celebrating all things entertaining in an event we are calling Make your Table Talk. Get your tickets by emailing ajohn@jonathanadler.com
As you will have noticed the two huge fashion trends this season are animal print and corduroy. This week we’re looking at the best of the high street and designer corduroy buys. We’re particularly embracing the retro take – think thick beige cord, inspired by Hilary Swank’s must-see performance in Trust (set in 1973) and Florence Pugh in the BBC’s hit new series Little Drummer Girl (1979) – but there are plenty of variations that bring corduroy bang up to date using clashing colours and fine tailoring. Here’s our edit of what to buy:
Fast-becoming London’s most famous Christmas tree. Who remembers Karl Lagerfeld’s upside-down creation last year? Each Christmas a different designer is given free reign over the tree, and this year it’s the turn of Diane von Furstenberg whose tree will celebrate ‘all aspects of life and love’. Unveiled on 27 November, tie it in with a Christmas afternoon tea (12 November – 1 January, £85 per person, book ahead) or glass of champagne at the bar. Every weekend there are carol singers in the foyer around the tree. claridges.co.uk
Nativity Art Tours with The Little Grand Tour
The Mystic Nativity by Sandro Botticelli
What’s Christmas all about anyway? Children can learn the story of the nativity with these small tours at the National Gallery that look at paintings of the Annunciation right through to the birth of Baby Jesus. 5, 7, 19 and 21 December, 10am – 12pm, ages 6+. From £35 per child, thelittlegrandtour.co.uk
Christmas at Kew
Credit Jeff Eden RBG Kew
In our opinion better than the Magical Lantern Show at Chiswick House which was great the first time but now feels dated. Kew’s yearly event changes enough to warrant multiple visits, featuring a mile-long trail through the botanical gardens lit up by 1 million lights. 22 November – 5 January, £16.50 adults, £10 children. kew.org
Ice Skating at the Natural History Museum
The Natural History Museum is our favourite place to skate. So pretty and not too big, with a very good hot chocolate. Until 20 January. Adults from £12.65; kids £8.80 nhm.ac.uk
Father Christmas at the Royal Albert Hall
We’ve rather gone off the department store grottos after Harrods made theirs invitation-only this year! Try the Royal Albert Hall instead for a magical, hour-long immersive experience meeting along the way toy soldiers, fairies, workshop elves, and of course, the real Father Christmas. 22 November – 22 December, 9.15am – 3.30pm, tickets £30. Ages 3 – 8 royalalberthall.com
Christmas Storytelling with Michael Rosen at The Old Vic
Book now to hear Michael Rosen reading from Bah! Humbug! and Unexpected Twist: An Oliver Twisted Tale, his unforgettable retellings of two timeless Dickens classics. 15 December, 11am, £6 children, £12 adults, ages 8+ oldvictheatre.com
The storytelling runs alongside the return of The Old Vic’s A Christmas Carol. Rhys Ifans starred in last year’s production and we’re hoping this year lives up to the rave reviews such as this in the Observer, ‘Matthew Warchus’ production is a love song to Christmas.’ 24 November – 19 January, £12-£67.50 oldvictheatre.com
Philip Pullman’s Grimm Tales at The Unicorn Theatre
Once Upon a Christmas….Philip Pullman reworks classic Brothers Grimm fairy tales. Tickets are already selling out fast so book now. 13 November – 6 January, £12-£26, ages 8-adult unicorntheatre.com
Handel’s Messiah by Candlelight at St Martin in the Fields
Get festive for a good cause at carol services and concerts in the wonderful St Martin in the Fields church in Trafalgar Square running from 28 November until Christmas. We’re booking Handel’s Messiah by candlelight, 29 November, 7.30-9.30pm, from £9 stmartin-in-the-fields.org
Backyard Cinema at Winterville
Clapham Common’s answer to Winter Wonderland has the brilliant addition of the Backyard Cinema. Catch your favourite festive film including Elf, Home Alone and Love Actually. The Chivaree Circus debuting at Winterville looks fab too. Cinema from £9.50 winterville.co.uk
Frisky & Mannish: Christmas!
Cabaret comedy duo Frisky & Mannish continue their tenth anniversary celebrations with a one-off Christmas show at The Spiegltent at Underbelly Festival’s Christmas in Leicester Sq. Sure to be brilliant. 17 December, 7.30pm, tickets from £21.88 lovetheatre.com
English National Ballet’s The Nutcracker at the Colisseum
English National Ballet’s Nutcracker (C) Laurent Liotardo
The ultimate traditional Christmas outing. Classical ballet with over 100 dancers, a full orchestra playing Tchaikovsky’s live score, and magical sets that carry you from frost-covered Edwardian London on Christmas Eve to the Land of Snow via hot air balloon. 13 – 30 December, all ages, tickets £7-£80 londoncoliseum.org
Snow White at the London Palladium
From the team behind last year’s Olivier Award winning panto comes this glittering production of Snow White starring Dawn French. Classic West End pantomime with all the trimmings; get ready to boo and hiss. 8 December – 13 January, tickets £22.50 – £150 snowwhitepalladium.com
Coppa Club Igloo’s on the Thames
Coppa Club’s winter igloos offer full-on, flashy Christmas. But it’s hard not to be wowed by the magical views over Tower Bridge, snuggly sheepskin rugs and a new menu from Sipsmith – including hot gin toddy’s. Booking essential. Open until 31 January coppaclub.co.uk
Carnaby Street Christmas Shopping
20% off at most of Carnaby Street’s shops including Cowshed, Cubitts, Paul Smith and Sweaty Betty, as well as at lots of its restaurants. A great excuse to see the Bohemian Rhapsody Christmas lights too. Tickets are free but you’ll need to register in advance here. Thursday 8 November, 5-9pm, carnaby.co.uk/christmas
Kitten Grayson Flowers is made up of horticulturist Kitten Grayson and the company’s Creative Director, Harriette Tebbutt, formerly an art director and interiors stylist. Together they created their signature style – refined yet sustainable, wild blooms paired according to habitat and season. We asked them about their work, inspiration and recommendations out and about in London.
Which part of London do you live in and why?
KG: I’ve just recently left West London and moved to Woodford. It’s such a joy to be near Epping Forest – the Autumn colours are absolutely glorious. I also love the William Morris Gallery round the corner in Walthamstow.
HT: . I’m originally from South London but I’ve lived in Tottenham for the last few years – it’s got a wonderful artistic vibe and energy that I love.
When did you first aspire to work with flowers?
KG: I grew up in the countryside in Somerset, and I’ve always been drawn to flowers and plants, and their truly extraordinary, healing, calming powers. As soon as I left school I started to train in floristry – it’s all I’ve ever wanted to do.
HT: I studied illustration and started out in Interior Styling and Art Direction. I always loved the floral side of it and when I started working with Kitten on events, I became more and more involved in the flowers themselves. We’ve worked together now for 5 years and have been on the Kitten Grayson Flowers journey together since it began.
Which are your favourite jobs of the past year?
BOTH: The Chelsea Flower Show was an amazing week – we designed a living garden with a bower of trees at the London Gate entrance to the Show, to celebrate the Royal Wedding: an English Oak and a Californian Cedar, up-planted with woodland flowers. It was incredibly exciting while also quite nerve wracking – there were some hairy moments with 6m tall trees on a massive lorry being reversed through the ornate wrought iron gates…an awesome team effort, utterly exhausting but a great honour and such fun.
KG: A highlight for me has been working on the cultivation of the biodynamic farm and cuttings garden at Heckfield Place. Alongside Jane Scotter from Fern Verrow, we have rooted through every single nursery and specialist to find the rarest and most unique English species, then planted them up and watched them grow… it has been such fun and truly thrilling, a dream project.
HT: We worked on some truly stunning parties this summer. For one incredibly romantic wedding, we created wild hedgerows outside the church and filled the venue with antique china vases overflowing with creamy roses, scented jasmine, sweetpeas and vibrant kumquats. For another, we planted hundreds of dahlias in the client’s own garden to fill the tent with a profusion of magnificent, colourful home-grown blooms.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
BOTH: Mother Nature herself! She has the best eye.
KG: Jane Scotter is a source of endless inspiration – she has alchemy in her fingertips. Also Tom Petherwick – I’m absolutely loving his book ‘Trees That Shape The World’. The Garden Museum here in London is a treasure and Babylonstoren in Cape Town (see below) for its utterly dreamy fruit and vegetable garden.
HT: I am always inspired by beautiful architecture, prints, paintings. I’m a member of the Tate and I drop in whenever I’m passing.
Which are your current favourite flowers?
KG: How can I choose! I do love the English Rose – the Queen of the Garden! And of course, sweetpeas (like a giggling gaggle of flirts, I always think), a beautiful pillowy peony (such a diva – always the centre of attention). The list goes on…
HT: I’m loving dried flowers at the moment – straw flowers, statice, helichrysum…they’re so delicate, and almost luminous in their colour.
How did you get involved in working at Heckfield Place and what are you working on there?
KG: It all started from a conversation with Ben Thompson at bwt. He told me about this incredible project he was working on and together we looked at the interiors, discussing natural palettes and raw pigments that best harmonised with the garden and landscape views in each room. This informed the vase choices, and of course the flowers that filled them; each stem has a sense of belonging, of having found its natural place within the home. We started working on creating a cuttings garden and the floral design earlier this year. The arrangements impart a unique story from the gardens and landscape beyond into each and every room.
HT: We’re now planting things for next year, planning events, conducting workshops and training, while doing the flowers and plants throughout the hotel. It is the most magical place, with so much going on – we always come away with more ideas, more things to be done than we started with!
Did you have any mentors when starting out?
KG: An incredible vegetable and flower grower in Somerset called Nicola Morter – she taught me how to propagate seeds, tend to them until they were flowering in the gardens.
HT: The floristry world is an amazingly warm and supportive network – I wouldn’t say I had a mentor per se but everyone we work with and alongside is incredibly generous, ever eager to help each other out, always offering advice and tips, sharing kit… You bump into everyone at the market and all are equal at 4am!
KG: I love Petersham Nurseries – there’s so much to admire there, it’s such a serene spot and the food is completely delicious – and Jackson Boxer’s St Leonards for dinner (see below).
HT: Craving Coffee in Tottenham is a local gem for brunch, Spring Restaurant at Somerset House is beautiful and the scratch menu is always intriguing, and Mangal 2 in Stoke Newington as it’s entirely reliable, always exactly what I’m hoping for.
We’ve posted about these print sales before that offer museum quality 6×6″ prints for just $100. This year’s sale from Magnum Photos and Aperture is entitled, Crossings and explores perspectives on transition and transformation in photography by over 120 leading artists. Great value for a beautiful collection of works, you’ll have to be quick as the sale runs for 5 days only and closes at midnight on 2 November 2018. Here’s a sample of what’s available:
Rene Burri Magnum Photos
“Go and discover for yourself, because the fantastic thing about photography is that you are able to freeze a moment that can never come back.”
BRAZIL. Rio De Janeiro. 1960. The Ministry of Health building designed by architect Lucio Costa’s team, including Oscar Niemeyer.
Bruno Barbey Magnum Photos
MOROCCO. Town of Essaouira. 1985.
Hands, a symbol of good luck, on a wall in Essaouira, Morocco. 1985. This image was on the cover of the National Geographic centenary issue in July 1988, as well as on the cover of Maroc (2003), which included text by Jemia and J-M.G. Le Clézio.
Harry Gruyaert Magnum Photos
JAPAN. Tokyo. Crossing in the Ginza district. 1996.
“ Since my first trip to Tokyo in 1996, I have always been fascinated by Japan; it’s so different from China or Korea. The attitude of the people is distinctive. You have an incredible sense of security: school children take the metro by themselves; you have the feeling you could leave your camera in a restaurant or a phone booth and would still find it there when you came back a few days later. There is also such a sense of discipline, like at this crossing where everybody waits patiently for the light to change before moving forward.
Something else about Japan: nobody looks at you. It’s paradise for a photographer, but after a while you wonder if you still exist.”
NB. Magnum Photos arrange shipping to the UK via DHL costing $27.30 (delivery in 2-4 days) plus expect to pay around £20 in Customs Duty.
Halloween might be over but the fancy dress fun is just beginning for little ones. Meri Meri have just opened their new dress up pop up shop in Harrods where you can go and play, trying on lots of Christmassy costumes as well as picking up sparkly party outfits. And how about this for anyone playing the star in the school Nativity?
We’re also great fans of their stationary, party kits and Christmas crackers – also available at the pop up. Open from 1 November – 30 December.
Some of our favourite designers, artisans and makers come together under one roof for the Badgers Velvet Underground pop up shop. Carefully curated by Ros Badger, find treasures like paintings and prints, hand stitched hats, leather bags, beautiful antique jewellery and more. The perfect place to find unique Christmas presents, there are two upcoming dates for your diary, 17-18 November at The Department Store, Brixton and 1 December at the Hampstead Collective. Here Ros picks out gifts for every sort of person, all of which can be found at the two winter shopping events:
Gift for a photography fan: Fleur Olby’s amazing new limited edition imprint
Gift for a hat hedonist – Andrew Wilkie sheepskin hat
Gift for ceramic collector – a piece of Fliff Carr’s exquisite pottery
Gift for a teen queen – Love & Hope woollen gloves from Quinton Chadwick
Gift for a boy biker – Baseball Cap from Dandy Star
Gift for a man who has everything – a foot rest from Tuffet.Co
Gift for doting Daschund owner – London Pooch print
Gift for a purist nature lover – a rug from Trill Farm
Gift for a jewellery addict – Badger’s Velvet unique jewellery
Gift for a twitcher –a bird painting from Tin Tabernacle
Gift for a mixologist – paper ‘Cocktail’ print from Sophia Langmead
Gift for a brazen boyfriend – a pair of socks or a tie from Jon Snow’s favourite tie maker Victoria Richards
Gift for a London lover of leather – a Rye Hide bag – all named after London post codes
Entrance is £3 but A Little Bird readers can pre-register here and enter Free into the Promo Code box in order to be listed as a VIP and gain free entry to either or both events.
London’s best Christmas workshops get booked up early, so gather some friends and plan a festive outing now:
Christmas Wreaths at Jam Jar
There are soaring numbers of wreath making workshops in London – everyone’s at it. Our favourite are run by Jam Jar, the florist behind Spring at Somerset House, Chiltern Firehouse etc. It’s the perfect excuse to visit their magical Peacock’s Yard Studio and sit before an open fire making a wreath using either a classic spruce or wired wreath base and adding beautiful seasonal foliage, foraged branches, sculptural seed heads, fruits and winter berries. £85 per person, 1-2 December, 11am and 2pm jamjarflowers.co.uk
Mince Pie Workshop with Bread Ahead
Book as soon as you can, Bread Ahead’s workshops always sell out fast. This Christmas they are offering all sorts of festive baking classes – try a 2-hour Family Baking session and make edible decorations for the tree or a Cheese Board Half Day – making sourdough raisin bread, rye crackers and oat cakes to impress grown up guests. The mince pie class is the ultimate classic, and a skill you’ll have up your sleeve for years to come. £90 per person, dates in December breadahead.com
Christmas Garland Workshop with Rockett St George
Liberty is extra lovely at Christmas. Combine some shopping with a festive workshop hosted in their Christmas Hideout. Create a festive garland for the fireplace or to run along a windowsill or up the stairs at this two hour-long workshop with Rockett St George, cocktail and goodie bag included. £85 per person, Thursday 8 November 6-8pm,libertylondon.com
Christmas Decorations Workshop at the Geffrye Museum
The Geffrye Museum’s Create Christmas program is full of fun classes like this decoration workshop led by fine artist Freya Gabie, who will teach you to create beautiful handmade decorations using origami shapes, seed pods and fir cones. Other classes include Make a Victorian Christmas Pudding, Make a Winter Wellness Survival Kit and wrapping paper screen printing. £30 per person, Wednesday 28 November 6.30-8.30pm and Saturday 8 December 11am-1pm, family friendly, ages 8+. geffrye-museum.org.uk
Christmas Card Printing at The Barbican
Print your own handmade Christmas cards with artist and printmaker, Jamie Temple at this lino printing workshop. Learn how to use different cutting tools and techniques to carve out a design from a block of lino before inking up and transferring to make a set of individual cards. £40 per person, Saturday 3 November 10.30am, Sunday 4 November 2pm tickets.barbican.org.uk
How To Cook the Perfect Christmas Lunch at Leiths
Daunted by the prospect of the turkey? In this day course you’ll learn how to cook the perfect succulent bird and all the trimmings to go with it. Leith’s also offer Christmas canapé classes, Christmas baking and Gluten-Free Christmas workshops. £155 per person, Saturday 1 December 10.30am-2pm,leiths.com
Fairy Tree Toppers at VV Rouleaux
Choose from vintage 50’s tulle, ribbons, beads, sequins, miniature petals and more bits and bobs from the V V Reuleaux collection to create a tree-topping fairy. £85 per person, Friday 23 November 2-4pm, vvrouleaux.com
Paris in the Autumn is nothing short of sublime. Hop aboard an early Eurostar on Saturday morning and step out at Gare du Nord just two hours later. Here’s how to spend a weekend in the city of lights:
BOOK A HOTEL
For the chicest of kips in the centre of town opt for Les Grands Boulevard– a sumptuous 50-room boutique hotel by designer Dorothée Meilichzon, or the nearby Hoxton, occupying another 18th Century hotel particuliere. Their ‘shoebox’ rooms may be small even for Paris standards, but the cosy communal spaces more than make up for it. For location, the Hôtel Jeanne d’Arcin the Marais is near on perfect, with elegant, reasonably priced rooms.For self-sufficiency look no further than the exquisitely furnished apartments from Anran, available through airbnb.
LET’S START WITH BREAKFAST
Breakfast at Judy, cantine qualitarienne on Rue de Fleurus
Sister restaurant to the beloved Cafe Obercampf, Cafe Mericourtis the latest go-to for breakfast – especially for melt-in-the-mouth shakshuka. Judyon Rue de Fleurus is haven for locally-sourced, organic produce, whilst Holybelly 5is the one for the classic brunch ambiance. The boutiques along Rue du Chateau d’Eau and covered Marche Saint Martin can be taken in after.
OR JUST A PASTRY
Du Pain et des Idées bakery
Still ruling the roost is Du Pain et des Idées: if you must choose, opt for their pistachio & chocolate roule, melty fresh apple chausson, or after midday, array of savoury breads including mini prune-bacons rolls. Elsewhere, Boulangerie Utopiefor black sesame pastries, Le Pain Au Naturel for organic breads or Sébastien Gaudard, for sheer unrivalled patisserie class.
TO A MUSEUM
Freddy Mamani’s ballroom at Fondation Cartier
First thing Saturday is the best time for a museum trip, and book ahead. There’s masses to see this autumn. We recommend Picasso. Blue and Roseat the Musee D’Orsay, an exceptional showcase of painting by the young artist during the intensely productive, emotionally wrought and career-defining period of 1900-06. Mucha at Musee Luxembourgis a spellbinding insight into the art nouveau world of the Parisian designer and draughtsman with exquisite drawings and prints in his unmistakable hand. And don’t miss Southern Geometries, from Mexico to Patagonia at the Foundation Cartier– a celebration of geometric art of Latin America, including a spectacular ‘Ballroom’ intervention by Bolivian architect Freddy Mamani, a sheer joy.
THE LUNCH SPOT
Miznon, off Rue de Roisiers. Boisterous, rambunctious Israeli joint serving out-of-this-world filled pittas, heroic grilled vegetables, and help-yourself fresh accompaniments.
WALKING UP AN APPETITE FOR DINNER
Strolls through Jardin du Luxembourg
Fewer cities are better catered for an afternoon stroll. But there are hidden spots beyond the Tuileries, the Jardin du Luxembourg, and the cobbled banks of the Seine. Parc des Buttes Chaumont boasts spectacular views, meandering paths and hidden grottos. Across the river, Jardin du Plantes is equally lovely – detour for the beautiful wood-paneled interior of the National History Museum, or the leafy central courtyard of the Grand Mosque – with tea at the delightful mosaiced cafe.
SHOPS, HERE THERE AND EVERYWHERE
Barthélémy fromagerie
From vintage posters to book shops dedicated to mountaineering literature, Paris fulfills every niche shopping need. Not forgetting the designer avenues, a handful of highlights include O/HP/Eand Empreintesfor concept stores, the quaint Saint Paul quartier for antiques, La Hunefor coffee table books and Sennelierfor art supplies. À la Mère de Famillefor chocolate, Barthélémyfor cheese and Caussesfor all other epicerie desires. A no visit to Paris is complete without stopping in at Merci.
DINNER TIME
Biglove Caffè
For unadaletered French fanfare, Bouillon Pigalleis a true crowd-pleaser. Or Clown Bar, serving French food with a Japanese twist under its famous muralled ceiling. Biglove Caffèis stylish Italian, deli-style, also serving gluten free pizza and their signature Bicerin Gianduja – espresso with a dollop of gianduja chocolate. As an alternative approach, head to Rue Sainte-Anne, the ramen hot-spot of Europe.
BARS
There’s no need to fuss – just that grab that seat under the heater! Our favourites include Septime La Cave, the pocket-sized sister to the sought-after eponymous restaurant, or the striking round bar at Le Mary Celeste– where it’s oyster happy hour from 5-7pm. Chez Prune in Saint Martin, an old favourite, still towing the line between trendy and not-too-trendy. For cocktails, Little Red Dooris an award-winning yet laid back spot on Rue Charlot.
SUNDAY IS MARKET DAY
Girolles by the crate at Marché d’Aligre
The throng and thrill of Bastille market is like no other, with a hundred or so stalls along Boulevard Richard Lenoir. A quieter alternative is Marché Monge, handily close to the famous epicerie and shoe shops of Rue Mouffetart, complete with music and dancing in the church square. Another favourite is Marché d’Aligre, a high-end covered food market as well as outdoor flea and groceries most mornings. Amble from here along the Coulée Verte René-Dumont, a leafy raised footpath – Paris’s answer to New York’s highline.
COFFEE & A SPOT MORE CULTURE
Gone are the days of frightful knock-back espressos – good coffee is now in full swing in Paris. The perfect take-out can be found at Boot Cafe, a stone’s throw from the Picasso Museum, whilst around the corner the beautiful oasis that is the Rodin Museum: Coutume. The Pompidou’s immediate surrounds may leave a little be to desired, so head up to Louistic for retro chic, or lunch at Bob’s Kitchenfor unpretentious fare. For the ultimate cafe en plein air wander down from the Musée du Luxembourg to Café de la Mairie, opposite Saint Sulpice church. The coffee itself isn’t world-class, but with its zinc bar and sun trap setting, the Parisian charm here is unbeatable.
Café de la Mairie, in Place Saint Sulpice
ONE LAST JAUNT
A climb up to Sacre Coeur is it not only for the views. Amble up via the unbeatable epiceries of Rue de Martyrs, stop for a coffee at KB Cafeshopand from the church itself, wander north and west through the filmic winding lanes of Montmartre. Soul Kitchenis a cosy and wholesome lunch spot, whilst adorable Les Petits Mitronsis an essential stop on the way down for still-warm cookies.
The view from Square Louise Michel, Montmartre
DON’T GO HOME
Or at least not without some train sustenance from one of the bakeries on Rue des Rosiers. We recommend the apple strudel from Boulangerie Murciano: pure sunshine – it will send you off with a lasting glow.
