A few years ago now, my sister decided that every birthday she would treat herself to a Moomin mug from which to sip her morning coffee. (If you’re not familiar with the Moomin clan, they are a 65 year old Finnish cartoon about a family of trolls and rather dear to most Scandies). Every year a different Moomin mug is brought out as a limited edition so she now has quite a collection – see below – which, as we shared a flat, I was lucky enough to use too. This year she got married and will soon be moving her mugs out with her but luckily I’ve discovered that a Moomin shop has just opened in Covent Garden Market building – definitely time to start collecting my own…
Recipe: a warming and delicious beef stew
Brrrr. It’s getting colder. Here’s a great winter stew recipe to warm you up. We make loads of stews all through the winter, and this one – shin of beef with ginger and soy, from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s book, River Cottage Every Day, is a high favourite for several reasons.
1) It’s delicious and tasty. Sometimes totally traditional stew can be a bit bland. Not this, with its soy and ginger. It’s still comfort food of the highest order, but it comes with a kick. It works both as an informal family supper or for a dinner party. It freezes well too.
2) It’s cheap. Shin of beef is an inexpensive cut of meat that needs to be cooked slowly for a long time, so the sinewy parts melt down and add a lovely gelatinous texture. Perfect, then, to use in a stew. 1.5kg of shin of beef, which is a lot of meat, costs less than a tenner.
3) It’s easy. The only trick to this stew, and any stew, is to take your time to brown the meat. You’ll get spat at by the fat, and your tongs will get hot with turning the meat so it’s properly browned on all sides, but it’s so worth it. Once you’ve done that, the rest is mere minutes of prep. Then it just sits in a low oven for 3 hours or so. We sometimes serve it with rice, but it really is best with egg noodles, as Hugh suggests.
Here is the full recipe:
Shin of beef with ginger and soy: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall: River Cottage Everyday.
Serves 4 – 6
2 tablespoons sunflower or groundnut oil or beef fat
About 1.5kg shin of beef, cut into 2cm thick slices, either on or off the bone.
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 thumb-sized nuggets of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons tart fruit jam or jelly, such as redcurrant, plum or crab apple
150ml soy sauce
350-500ml apple juice
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 medium-hot fresh or dried chillies
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 120 C/ Gas ½
Heat the oil or fat in a wide, heavy-based flameproof casserole.
Season the pieces of meat with salt and pepper and brown them in batches, so you don’t overcrowd the pan, turning them to colour all over. Remove each batch and set aside while you brown the rest. The meat may curl up a bit as the membranes contract with the heat, especially if the slices are on the bone: snipping the membranes will help release the tension and flatten the meat out again. Once the beef is browned, remove it from the casserole and set aside on a plate.
Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic and ginger to the casserole and cook gently until softened but not coloured. Add the jam or jelly and soy sauce, mix well, then return the meat to the casserole, in a single layer if possible. (It’s not possible, not unless you have the biggest casserole in the world. It doesn’t matter though).
Pour in enough apple juice barely to cover the meat.
Add the vinegar, whole chillies and a few grinds of black pepper, then cover and place in the oven. Cook for 2 ½ – 3 hours, until the meat is completely tender.
The garlic and ginger should just about hold their shape and should be eaten with the meat. The chillies will have done their job and can be discarded – or nibbled by anyone brave enough. Serve with noodles and steamed greens.
Restaurant: The River Café’s secret, affordable set lunch
How much do we love The River Café? The answer is, better than anywhere else. We love the menu, we love the food, we love the Prosecco cocktails (made with blood oranges in winter and white peaches in summer), we love watching dishes being shovelled into its wood burning domed fire, and we love the way it pulls off being both delightfully informal and exceedingly glamorous at the same time. We would go more often but we can’t because it costs the earth. Except, that it doesn’t – not necessarily. Not if you’re in on the secret of the ‘Winter Set Lunch Offer’. OK, so, since we’re spilling the beans, here’s how it works: for two and a half months beginning this Monday and ending on the last day of March, if you book a table at 12.30pm or 2.15pm any weekday, you can ask for the ‘Winter Set Lunch Offer.’ This means you’ll be given a slightly shorter version of the day’s à la carte menu (the dishes are the same, there’s just a bit less choice), which is also, crucially, much, much cheaper. How much cheaper? At least half price, with two courses for £25 (not including drinks or service), two courses and a dessert for £31, or a full on three courses and a dessert for £39. But if you don’t ask for the Winter Set Lunch Offer, you won’t be offered it. The River Café originally devised the shorter, cheaper menu to allow those who work in the next door offices to treat the restaurant like a posh canteen, and they don’t advertise or publicise it at all. Asking for it is like a secret handshake. Use it well.
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Stationery: Alison Carmichael
Fancy sorting all your thank you, Valentine and birthday cards for 2012 upfront? Head to artist and designer Alison Carmichael’s new site where you’ll find beautiful labels and cards decorated with hand crafted typography. We love the Alice in Wonderland-inspired tags with messages such as ‘Eat me’ and ‘Unwrap me’, and the box of emergency cards with messages including ‘Hip Hip’ for the good times, and ‘I have a Sieve Brain’ for those occasions when an all too important celebration has been forgotten.
Ducksoup
It’s unusual in London to be able to eat really first rate food without fanfare and a large bill, but that’s exactly what Ducksoup provides. Set up by former HIX chef Julian Biggs, and Clare Lattin, who has worked in food PR and cookbook publishing for years, you can nip in there on your own or with friends, after work or on your way to the theatre, sit at the bar, have a delicious glass of wine and a plate of ham or some lardo on toast, and then head out into the night. If you linger longer, as we did, you’ll have time to eat more, and though the decor is minimal and space at a premium (and the menu comes scrawled on a sheet of paper torn from a notebook), the food is delectably good. We had papardelle with cavalo nero, hazlenuts and ricotta that was so delicious we ordered a second portion. It cost £7. In fact, we couldn’t stop ordering: we ate ceps, artichokes romano, purple sprouting broccoli with anchovies and sourdough crumbs, a salad of raw sprouts, pancetta salamata, parmesan and walnuts, grilled scallops with guanciale (a sort of bacon), and various other delicacies. We fell about with pleasure at every mouthful. We were taken there by a fantastic chef friend, and as we left we saw two more chefs sitting at the bar. Is there any better recommendation?
Recipe: leftover pork, fennel and potatoes
We went to Bocca di Lupo the other day for a friend’s birthday dinner and ate many plates of delectable food. By the time the fourth course arrived we were full, except that the fourth course was roast suckling pig, and we had to make room for that. But even given our considerable appetite, we couldn’t finish the generous portion we were given, so we asked for a doggy bag and took it home. (We nabbed our companion’s leftovers too!)
Two evenings later we added it to pan fried fennel and new potatoes, boiled until just tender, then thrown in with the fennel to brown along with a squeeze of lemon juice and some herbs. It’s a Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall recipe from his great book River Cottage Every Day. The recipe is so easy and good, and you can use any left over pork – roast loin, shoulder, whatever you’ve already cooked for a Sunday lunch or dinner. From now on, whenever I roast or braise pork I will always, always buy and cook enough to have leftovers, so that I can produce this fabulous meal a day or two later with minimal effort. The kids adored it too. The photo shows it before I added handfuls of chopped flat leaf parsley, so imagine it looking prettier flecked in green. The camera was abandoned at that point due to greed. We ate it with swiss chard dressed with oil and lemon, and a green salad. Full recipe below the photo.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s Leftover pork with fennel and new potatoes
Serves 4
2 large fennel bulbs (or however many you’ve got. We used one).
3 tablespoons rapeseed or olive oil
About 400g cold cooked new potatoes, cut into chunky pieces (ours were hot as we’d just cooked them. Doesn’t matter either way. Likewise, skins on or off, whichever you prefer).
300-400g cold roast pork loin, shoulder or belly, thickly sliced, then cut or torn into strips (or however much you’ve got leftover).
Juice of half a lemon
A few roughly torn mint leaves (we used parsley, as we didn’t have mint. Worked very well).
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Trim the top and bottom of the fennel bulbs and cut into thick wedges, keeping a bit of the rooty base on each wedge if possible, as it will hold the wedge together.
Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the fennel with a pinch of salt and saute over a medium heat for 6-7 minutes, until tender and golden, or even a little tinged with brown.
Add the potatoes to the pan and fry for a few more minutes until they start to turn golden, then add the pork and fry, stirring a few times, until heated through.
Squeeze over the lemon juice, season with salt and pepper to taste and scatter over the mint, if using. Serve straight away.
Vogue, The Secret Address Book, Dec 2011
And Finally…
The Delaunay, the latest venture from Jeremy King and Chris Corbin of The Wolseley, is officially opening on Monday 5th December – hurray! To book a table (we particularly recommend a pre-christmas tea), click here for the all important reservations number.
Restaurants: The Delaunay
At last, the latest venture from Jeremy King and Chris Corbin of The Wolseley, is opening it’s doors on Monday 5th December. The Delaunay is housed in a grand building on Aldwych, just off the Strand, and whilst it serves much the same warming, winter fare as The Wolseley (wiener schnitzel, welsh rarebit and kedgeree) it also has a separate eat-in or take-out deli counter too. Particularly inviting is afternoon tea with three different types of hot chocolate and a delicious array of cakes and brownies to choose from. We advise you get your bookings in quick as you don’t need to be Mystic Meg to predict that Jeremy and Chris look like they have another winner on their hands. You can dial the number below or they take reservations online too.
A cheaper, merrier Christmas wreath
Yesterday I saw lots of lovely christmas wreaths which really got me into the festive mood. That was until I looked at some of the prices: £100 for a wreath! And not one with all the bells and whistles on it but a small, plain green wreath (albeit a very plump looking one). Which got me thinking…I can do that! So a few fronds later, some green twine, ribbon and a reusable, wooden round base I made the the wreath below for a bargain £15 and best of all, had the pleasure of making it myself.
Leon: Baking & Puddings and Allegra McEvedy’s Bought, Borrowed and Stolen
There are some cookbooks that we love the look of, but then find they contain recipes that are so complicated and require so many ingredients, that we rarely take them off our shelves. These two cookbooks are completely different. Written by the co-founders of the Leon chain (along with Claire Ptak of Violet Bakery), they contain recipes that are easy to cook, use accessible ingredients and result in absolutely delicious food – you’ll use them again and again, we promise. Leon: Baking and Puddings by Claire Ptak and Henry Dimbleby sounds calorific but actually three-quarters of their recipes are sugar, dairy, wheat or gluten free (think along the lines of the delicious flour-free brownies on sale at Leon). The book is divided into two: the first half contains recipes to use everyday: breads and granolas plus a great cooking with kids section. The second half contains recipes for celebrations, from plum ice-cream to one of our favourites: flourless chocolate fudge cake.
The second book, Bought, Borrowed and Stolen by Allegra McEvedy is the result of twenty years of McEvedy’s travels. Along the way, she kept copious notes and diaries of all the food she enjoyed, and for this book she has whittled them down to 123 recipes. They’re sorted into countries from Turkey to Japan, with simple, straightforward instructions so that making lamb and aubergine kebabs becomes as easy as whipping up spaghetti bolognese. If you’ve grown tired of your own recipes, this book will give you the kick start you need into a whole new culinary world.

